The most common water tank problem we see on service calls across North Texas is a waterlogged pressure tank — and most homeowners do not realize it is happening until the well pump starts short-cycling or fails entirely. But waterlogging is just one of several tank issues we repair regularly.

Here are the tank problems Legacy Water Well diagnoses and fixes most often:

• Waterlogged pressure tank — The internal bladder ruptures or loses integrity, allowing water to fill the air chamber. The tank can no longer maintain pressure between pump cycles, causing rapid short-cycling that destroys pumps.
• Leaking tank fittings — The tee assembly, pressure gauge port, or drain valve at the base of the tank develops leaks from corrosion, vibration, or thermal cycling.
• Corroded tank shell — North Texas well water with low pH or high mineral content attacks the tank from the inside out. Once you see rust weeping at the seams, the tank is done.
• Failed pressure switch — Technically not the tank itself, but the pressure switch mounted on the tank controls the entire system. Burned contacts, clogged sensing ports, and corroded terminals are common failures.
• Storage tank leaks — Polyethylene storage tanks can develop cracks from UV exposure, ground settling, or freeze damage. Fiberglass tanks can delaminate at seams.

Not every tank problem means a full replacement. Here is how we decide — and how you can think about it before you call:

Repair makes sense when:

• The pressure switch is the only failed component — a $75–$150 fix.
• A fitting or valve is leaking but the tank itself is sound — tighten, reseal, or replace the fitting.
• The tank just needs a pre-charge adjustment — free if we are already on-site, or part of an annual maintenance visit.
• A storage tank has a minor fitting leak that can be resealed.

Replacement is the right call when:

• The bladder has failed (waterlogged tank) — bladders cannot be replaced in most residential tanks. The whole tank gets swapped.
• The tank shell is corroded — once rust is visible on the outside, the inside is worse. A corroded tank is a ticking clock.
• The tank is 10+ years old and showing any symptoms — at that age, repair is throwing money at a tank that is near end of life anyway.
• The tank is undersized for the current pump — if you upgraded your pump but kept the old tank, you are short-cycling. A bigger tank solves it.

We will always give you an honest assessment. If a $100 repair fixes the problem, that is what we recommend. If the tank needs to go, we will explain exactly why.

When we arrive for a tank service call, here is our diagnostic process:

1. Visual inspection — We check for rust, leaks, condensation patterns, and physical damage on the tank and all fittings.
2. Pre-charge test — We shut off the pump, drain the tank, and check the air pressure with a gauge on the Schrader valve. No air pressure = waterlogged. Water from the valve = ruptured bladder.
3. Pressure switch test — We verify cut-in and cut-out pressures, check contact condition, and inspect the sensing port for clogs.
4. Cycle test — We run the system through several full cycles, timing the drawdown and recovery to verify the tank is performing correctly.
5. Amp draw on the pump — While we are there, we check the pump's amp draw to make sure the pump is healthy and not being damaged by tank issues.

This complete diagnostic takes about 30 minutes and tells us exactly what is going on with your system — not just the symptom, but the root cause.